Growing up, I spent a lot of time with my maternal grandparents. They lived within the view shed of the San Gabriel Mountains. The mountains were just beautiful, and my grandparents gave me my first introduction to the lovely mountains, so close to their home.
They told me about the times they spent at the Mt. Lowe Hotel and the Alpine Tavern that was close by. They talked about a place called Inspiration Point and how you could see for miles and miles through pipes that were installed up there.
Some of the most fascinating stories they told me were about the miracle train that skirted around the mountain to bring them to these wonderful sites. It was a great time to be alive, to experience all of these wonderful things. My grandmother even had a souvenir plate in white and delft blue with an image of the Mt. Lowe Hotel.
The Mt. Lowe Railway was one of three scenic mountain railroads in America. It existed from 1893 until 1938. The railway climbed up to a station named Mountain Junction. At this site was a 12-room hotel. Passengers could take a funicular from this point up the great incline to the top of Echo Mountain where there was a gorgeous, Victorian-style hotel with 70 rooms. It was called the Echo Mountain House. Nearby was the Echo Chalet, which had 40 rooms. In this same area an observatory, car barns, dormitories, repair facilities, a casino and a dance hall were located.
Mount Lowe Railway
From this point, passengers could also transfer to another trolley called the Alpine Division. This line would take them to my grandfather’s favorite spot, Ye Alpine Tavern. There was also a 22-room Swiss Chalet that had tennis courts, wading pools and mule rides. But grandpa loved that tavern. Even though the fare on the scenic train was a whopping $5 at the time, this did not deter my grandparents from heading to the mountains whenever they had spare time. However, this stiff fee probably kept others away.
It is a shame that bankruptcies and multiple fires eventually led to the downfall of the Mt. Lowe-Echo Mountain buildings and railway. Unfortunately, Southern California has always experienced a lot of wildland fires, and these buildings were made of pine timbers and granite. Those dry timbers easily went up in flames. I would have loved to see them all refurbished and in use still today. But the ruins of most of the buildings are still visible and approachable for hikers in several directions.
Alpine Tavern
Standing among the ruins, it is easy to imagine what fun the visitors had. Every time I visit the area, I can envision my grandmother in her layered skirts waltzing around the Echo Mountain House and my grandfather sitting in the tavern with his buddies sharing a root beer or sassafras tea. He told me about the GREAT fireplace that would keep them warm when it snowed there in winter. During summer, he and his buddies would spend the day playing shuffleboard and ping-pong at the tavern. In the evenings, they would play cards, dance, or listen to a phonograph.
If you would like to see these ruins, there are several ways to get there.
1) Drive to Pasadena via the 210 freeway. Exit Lake Avenue. Turn left. Go all the way to the end of Lake Avenue. You will see a large estate gate. This is the entrance to the trail. Follow the trail to the top. Turn right at the top to see the Echo Mountain House hotel ruins. Go up the Castle or Sam Merrill Trail to see Inspiration Point. At the top of the Sam Merrill Trail, turn left to make your way to Ye Old Tavern ruins.
2) Drive up into the San Gabriel Mountains on Hwy 2. Turn right at Red Box Road. Follow this road to the first trail head on the right. Park. Walk along this fire road through the Mueller Tunnel and continue down this road until you see a little sign that says Mt. Lowe Trail Camp or Ye Old Tavern. Here you will turn down a single track trail for a short distance to see the old tavern ruins. To see the other sites, use the same trails mentioned in No. 1, but reverse the direction.
I have visited these ruins dozens of times, and I never tire of seeing them. I hope you have a chance to visit them and marvel at the technology of the day as I have done. If your family has lived in the Los Angeles vicinity for a couple of generations, perhaps your relatives frolicked in the tavern or the dance hall with my relatives.
Now, go out and take a hike.
Dianne Erskine-Hellrigel is executive director of the Community Hiking Club and president of the Santa Clara River Watershed Conservancy. Contact Dianne through communityhikingclub.org or at zuliebear@aol.com.
Echo Mountain House
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13 Comments
What a great story. I love local history like this. My husband and I are going to do this hike. Thanks.
What a great story this is. My husband and I are going to do this hike.
Love this. Thanks, we are going to go on this hike.
Have fun! If you would like to go on a hike with the Community Hiking Club, we’re going to be leading this hike with an historian, who will give the history of the Tavern. (We’ll be hiking to the Tavern and Inspiration Point on that day)
Thanks for the share! Christine White, let’s do this hike.
Yesss next weekend?
Yeah!
Mary C. Timmer – riding on the foundations of this railway was exhilarating.
Dianne,
The stories of your family and their wonderful access to the San Gabriel Mountains are inspiring.
Yet I have concerns that those rosy memories of the past do not adequately deal with the needs of today.
The basic tenets of the Forest Service requires that access be for all American citizens. Granted, in the past 20-30 years, that has skewed toward access for profit-making timber companies, and others such as ski-friendly commercial companies and timber-friendly “restoration” projects.
At the same time, the USFS has proceeded to limit, control and close existing roads and trails throughout the ANF based on budget cuts and so-called “fire hazard” restrictions.
Granted, some of those restrictions are based on science; but many (if not most) are based on budgetary restraints. Large swaths of the existing forest are off-limits due to fire closures, even when major portions of the forest have suffered little or no damage from the named fires. This occurs because the FS has determined that access cannot be controlled due to staffing issues, or lack of “gates”. In other words, if they have to spend time and money managing access, they cannot do so due to budgetary restraints.
You and your friends have won a major victory in turning most of our native mountains into the San Gabriel Mountain Wilderness. The USFS will no doubt do their best (under Congress’ restrictions) to meet those requirements. But when those requirements keep me and many other people from accessing the National Forest, especially those with limited ability to hike many miles on trails from gaining access to these “protected areas”, who is being served?
Your memories? Or the people who own and are entitled to have access to these areas owned by the People of the United States of America?
I’ve done this hike a few times ! It’s a real “butt kicker” , it’s allll UP ! There are still cables , track and platform where passengers were dropped off . It’s very cool !
One of the gears that was used in the railway
What’s left of a rail car
Mt Lowe sign and stairs in the back leading to the platform